Why leather boots deserve the effort

A pair of full-grain leather walking boots is one of the few bits of kit that genuinely gets better with age. They mould to your feet, stiffen into the right shape across the flex points, and shrug off brambles, scree and the sort of peat bog that swallows a gaiters-and-trainers combination without a second thought. But that moulding only happens if the leather stays supple, and it only stays supple if you look after it.

Left alone through a wet British winter, leather does three things: it dries out and cracks at the creases, it loses its water-repellent finish and starts to wet out on the surface, and grit works its way into the stitching along the welt. None of that is dramatic on any single occasion. All of it is expensive over five years. The good news is that the routine takes ten minutes after a walk and a longer session once a month, and it is genuinely satisfying work.

Clean mud off while the boots are still damp

The single biggest mistake is leaving mud to dry and bake on the leather. Dried mud pulls moisture and oils out of the surface as it sets, leaving the boot feeling papery and stiff. Clean them the same day if you can, while the mud is still soft and slightly damp.

• Use lukewarm water and a soft brush — an old nail brush or a dedicated boot brush with nylon bristles.
• Keep a separate old toothbrush for the welt, the seams and the eyelet area, where mud compacts and is easy to miss.
• Never use washing-up liquid, detergent, or a hosepipe on a jet setting. These strip the oils and can force water past the membrane.
• Don't immerse the boots in a bucket. Work on the surface and wipe as you go with an old towel.
• Never put leather boots in a washing machine, however tempting the state of them.

Pay particular attention to the crease lines across the top of the toes, the tongue where it folds, and the join between upper and sole. If you wear boots with a fabric panel or a waterproof lining, be gentler still — scrub the leather and wipe the fabric rather than soaking the whole boot.

Dry them slowly, away from heat

This is where most boots are quietly ruined. A radiator, an airing cupboard, a woodburner, a sunny windowsill or the footwell of a car with the heater on will all dry leather far too fast. Leather is skin: heat drives out the natural oils, the fibres stiffen, and you get fine cracks that open up into splits at the flex points. By the time you notice them, the damage is done.

Instead, aim for room temperature with moving air. Untie the laces, pull the tongue forward, and take the insoles out so air can circulate through the boot rather than around it. If they are soaked through, stuff them loosely with crumpled newspaper — plain newsprint, not glossy magazine pages — and change the paper every few hours for the first day. It will draw moisture out steadily without cooking the leather.

Allow 24 to 48 hours for a proper dry, and longer after a full soaking. Dry them in shape: a boot tree, or rolled newspaper pushed gently into the toe, keeps the upper from collapsing as it dries. Never use a tumble dryer, a hairdryer or a microwave, no matter what you have heard in a pub.

Re-proof leather regularly

Once boots are clean and properly dry, feed the leather. A beeswax or lanolin-based conditioner or wax is the traditional choice for full-grain and smooth leather; nubuck and suede need a brush and a spray rather than a wax, or you will flatten the nap.

• Warm the boot very slightly first — near, but not on, a radiator — so the leather opens up and takes the product.
• Apply thin coats with your fingers or a lint-free cloth, working it into the creases, seams and welt rather than just the shiny middle panels.
• Leave each coat for twenty to thirty minutes to absorb, then buff off any excess with a cloth. Two thin coats beat one thick, greasy one.
• Re-proof after every few wet walks in winter, roughly monthly if you are out regularly, and always before a long trip.

If your boots have a waterproof and breathable lining, be moderate — a heavy build-up of wax can reduce breathability — but err on the side of generosity with plain leather. Slightly over-conditioned beats cracked every time.

Laces, insoles and the bits people forget

A boot is a system, and the small parts let it down as often as the leather does. Wash laces by hand in warm water with a little soap, rinse, and dry them flat; gritty laces saw through eyelets and stretch out of shape. Take insoles out after every walk, let them air separately, and replace them when they have flattened into cardboard — a compressed insole is often what makes a boot feel suddenly uncomfortable.

Check the metalwork for rust and grit, and run a finger along the welt stitching to feel for fraying or trapped stones. Store boots upright and loose, not squashed in a bag under other kit, and keep a small cleaning kit — brush, cloth, tin of wax — in the boot of the car or by the back door so it is easier to use than to skip.

A simple routine through the year

After each walk: rinse off the worst of the mud while damp, loosen the laces, pull the insoles and let everything air overnight. Once a month in the walking season: a full clean, a proper slow dry, and a fresh coat of conditioner. At the end of winter: inspect the soles for wear, check the stitching, and book them in with a cobbler before the sole grinds through to the midsole. A good repair is a fraction of the price of new boots, and a well-cared-for pair of leather boots will carry you across a great many wet hills before they need retiring.