Why bother with poles?

Walkers often dismiss poles as kit for the Alps, or for people whose knees have already given up. In practice they're useful on any ground that's uneven, slippery or steep — which, in Britain, means most of the good stuff. A quiet towpath in the Midlands won't demand them, but a boggy stretch of the Pennine Way, a stony descent off Snowdon, or a greasy chalk path in the Chilterns certainly will.

• Less load on your knees and hips. Poles share some of the work your legs would otherwise do alone, which matters most on descents.
• Better balance. Two extra contact points make muddy bridleways, river crossings and loose scree far less nervy.
• More endurance. Your arms and shoulders join in, so your legs last longer before they tire.
• Confidence on rough ground. If you're carrying a heavier rucksack, poles make the whole day feel steadier.

Setting the length

Before anything else, get the length right. Stand up straight on level ground with the pole tip on the floor and your arm relaxed by your side. The top of the handle should sit at roughly the height of your elbow, with your forearm parallel to the ground when you hold it. Most poles have marks printed on the lower shaft, so note where you are and you can reset quickly next time.

Once you have your flat-ground setting, learn to adjust as the terrain changes:

• Uphill: shorten each pole by roughly 5–10cm. You want to push downwards, not stretch forwards.
• Downhill: lengthen by roughly 5–10cm, so the pole reaches the ground ahead of you without you stooping.
• Side slopes: set one pole shorter than the other, and swap sides when you turn around.

Check the locks are tight every time you head out. A pole that collapses under your weight is a genuine hazard, particularly on a descent.

The straps: the bit almost everyone gets wrong

Walkers commonly loop the strap over the wrist and then grip the handle for dear life. That's backwards, and it's why so many people end up with aching forearms and sore hands.

Slide your hand up through the loop from underneath, so the strap runs across the back of your hand, then bring your hand down over the grip with the strap passing between your thumb and palm. Set up properly, the strap — not your fingers — carries the weight. On the flat you can walk with an almost open hand, letting the strap do the work. On descents, press down with a flat palm on top of the handle for extra push.

To test it, hold the pole by the strap alone, without gripping the handle, and push the tip into the ground. It should stay put. If it doesn't, rethread the strap and try again.

Planting and rhythm

The basic pattern is simple: the pole moves with the opposite foot. Right pole plants as your left foot lands, left pole plants as your right foot lands. That keeps you balanced and gives you a natural, slightly four-legged gait.

• Aim to place the tip roughly level with your heel, or just behind your toe — not far out in front.
• Push gently backwards as you step through, rather than stabbing at the ground.
• Keep your elbows soft and your shoulders relaxed. If your arms are rigid, you'll feel it by teatime.
• Swap the metal tips for rubber ones on tarmac and canal paths, where metal skids and wears down quickly.

Practise on a flat park path or an easy track for half an hour before you take them somewhere serious. The rhythm feels odd at first and then, quite suddenly, doesn't.

Descents: where poles earn their keep

If you only ever use poles on one kind of ground, make it downhill. Walking down a steep, stony path can load your knees with several times your body weight with every step, and poles move a good share of that force through your arms instead.

Lengthen the poles slightly, plant them well ahead and below you, and let them guide your step. Shorten your stride, keep your weight back over your feet, and lower your centre of gravity a little on loose ground. On genuinely steep sections, planting both poles in turn gives you a controlled four-point descent that feels far safer than picking your way down unaided.

British paths throw in gates, stiles and kissing gates at inconvenient moments. Collapse the poles and carry them through rather than trying to juggle everything, and take care not to swing them into the legs of whoever is behind you.

A few practical notes

• Aluminium poles are cheaper and more forgiving of rough treatment; carbon ones are lighter but can snap. For a first pair, aluminium is perfectly sensible.
• Three-section poles pack small enough for a day rucksack and are the usual choice for British hillwalking.
• Fit mud baskets when the ground is soft or boggy — they stop the tip sinking deep.
• Rinse and dry the poles after a wet, muddy day, and store them loosely extended rather than jammed shut.
• If your shoulders or neck ache after a walk, check your length setting and your straps before blaming the poles.

Give them three or four walks and you'll stop thinking about the mechanics entirely. Then they'll simply be part of how you get up and down the hills — and your knees will thank you on the way home.